Processing the ultraprocessed food phobia
For much of the world, simply getting enough calories to sustain life is a daily challenge. Among the relatively affluent citizens in the west, wave after wave of dietary fashions encourage us to medicalize food. A recent example is the demonization of “processed” and “ultraprocessed” foods. This has been validated by the Trump nominee for HHS secretary*. While we can stipulate that a diet of exclusively unprocessed foods won’t be harmful**, what’s the evidence that processed food is harmful? Dietician Jessica Wilson decided to do an unblinded, non-placebo-controlled experiment. Designing the experiment was challenged by the lack of a rigorous definition of “processed” and “ultraprocessed” foods. “For the month, 80 percent of my diet came from ultraprocessed foods, as best I could define them. But while van Tulleken purposefully swapped snacks like nuts for chips, I didn’t make any nutritional compromises with my diet. I ate that cashew yogurt, as well as Aidells Chicken and...